One Dress Protest is me, Kristy Powell, wearing one dress for one year in order to protest the ideas and motivations behind how and why I wear my clothes. Over the year I aim to challenge the ways identity is constructed through clothing, what sustainability means for consumption, how our perception of others is so often based on external presentation, and what “fashion” ultimately means for me going forward.
{day 50}
Real Materialism
Since beginning ODP I’ve not only been more cognitively aware of my relationship with clothing and/or what I put on my body, but I’ve recently noticed being more aware of my subconscious as it relates to the nuances of what I’m wearing. It’s a little complicated, but let me explain.
Over the last month and a half I’ve tried to begin a conversation here on ODP about clothing awareness, raising issues about the way we think about our clothes and wardrobe, how we experience ourselves in relationship to clothing advertising, asking from where and from whom we should be getting our clothes, etc. Today I’m going to concentrate that conversation on my somatic experience of what I’m wearing. For not only do I intend for ODP to be about awareness raising, but also about the ways I experience myself in one dress over the year.
Prior to beginning ODP (or even determining to do ODP), I only thought about myself and my relationship with clothes in what seemed like the most normal ways: how they made me look, how I felt about myself in them, whether or not they were portraying what I either wanted or thought I should be “saying” with my appearance, etc. I gave little thought to the material from whence my clothes came, the longevity of my clothes’ life, or even where it went once I was done wearing it. Now that I think about it, my clothing experience was much more about others and the way they saw me than it was about myself (and not in such an overt middle-schooler way, but in ways more subtle and harder-to-notice on the surface).
Yet slowly I’m beginning to become aware of myself in a new way. And though I’m still alert to my old ways of understanding myself in what I’m wearing, I’m now additionally becoming more aware of a new dimension in my clothing experience.
It’s as if I’m becoming more attuned to the ways my clothes contribute to the person I am out in the world, or to the experience I’m having at any given moment. I feel as though I’m experiencing my life and my encounters with others more deeply as a result of wearing one dress every day. Let me explain.
Recently, I’ve had two experiences I want to share with you that have brought this to my attention. I was at a prayer service two weeks ago – a humble, brief opportunity to commune with others and God in the middle of the week. Upon entering the space and settling into my chair, without thinking I removed my shoes and sat them outside of the circle our chairs made. Later I thought back on just what possessed me to do that, since I’d never done it before.
The more I thought, the more I arrived at the conclusion that my subconscious somehow felt it appropriate to value such a sacred space by removing what felt inappropriate at the time. Without thinking, I realized my shoes had to go.
The other occasion was during a dinner my husband and I had with a friend this past week. He had created a warm and inviting space to share a meal with us, and I immediately felt at home in a home I had never been. Again, without thinking, I reached down and removed my watch and tucked it into my pocket. And once again, I surprised myself.
Now I’m not a slave to my watch – some days I wear it, and others I don’t. I don’t feel “naked” when I don’t have it on, as my husband says when he forgets his. Yet, at our friend’s home, which he had made to feel so welcoming and gracious, it felt inappropriate to have it on. Whereas I’ve never even been aware of my watch’s presence on my wrist in such an atmosphere, Thursday night it felt invasive, as if it were some violation into the congenial setting our friend has brought us into, reminding me of time and responsibility.
Since I now only have one dress, I not only sense myself becoming more thrifty with taking care of it, but also appreciating what my clothes do for me and the way they are involved in my life.
As for thrifty care, over the last fifty days I’ve had buttons pop off for me to promptly re-sew, whereas before I would have put the defective garment away to get fixed by someone else. Thus, some of my favorite items often went unattended, often until they were no longer my “style.” Yet presently, when the fabric rips on my dress, I dash to the seamstress, I replace buttons, I wash with utmost care. In short, I make every attempt to care for my dress.
As you might imagine, when you wear one main item every day, you begin to appreciate it like you never thought you would.
Through this project I’m thankful for the ways I’ve given myself over to the opportunity to appreciate how my clothes contribute to my livelihood and wellbeing in much deeper ways than any new styles ever did. Because my clothes so maintain me, I’m learning new ways I can work to maintain my clothes.
Wendell Berry, in his book Home Economics, writes:
Our present economy, by contrast, does not account for affection at all, which is to say that it does not account for value. It is simply a description of the career of money as it preys upon both nature and human society. Apparently because our age is so manifestly unconcerned for the life of the spirit, many people conclude that it places an undue value on material things. But that cannot be so, for people who valued material things would take care of them and would care for the sources of them. We could argue that an age that properly valued and cared for material things would be an age properly spiritual.
Thus, according to Berry, it’s really a misnomer to label our culture as “materialistic.” For if we were really materialistic, “people who valued material things would take care of them and would care for the sources of them.”
I hope that through my experience of learning to value the ways my dress contributes not only to my being out in the world but also my living well, I can take steps toward the right sort of materialism – one that allows me to care for what I own and the environment from which it came. At this point, this seems to be becoming more and more natural, since my dress so well cares for me.
Can we strive for a healthy and appropriate concept of materialism, based on how Wendell Berry describes it? And if so, what does that look like for you?
this post really hit a chord with me. i too have long struggled with the conflicting minimalism i feel the need for and the materialism i am surrounded with. my life has been a constant struggle against the procurement of new furniture, clothing, and toys and the desire to purge them all.
for me i think part of it is our apartment. we had a 1000 sq ft apartment and felt compelled to fill it. we had a baby and people give us stuff…constantly! (sometimes i feel like grandparents send a new toy every week) it is a constant push and pull feeling.
we downsized last summer to a 800 sq ft apartment and got rid of a lot of things that “weighed us down” and our real plan is to live in a 14′ RV by the end of the summer. literally getting rid of everything that weighs us down and only having what we really need: a roof, a few necessities, and each other!
Wow, Jessica, you guys are on a fast track to a different sort of materialism! I can only imagine the “stuff” that can come with having children (particularly by way of grandparents/others in their efforts to be generous). I know that must be a tough battle to wage.
I hope in your ongoing process to downsize that you are able to develop a care and appreciation for the items you determine to keep–a right materialism. I also hope that you are able to find the stuff you discard new homes, in effort to care for it as well. Keep me posted!
Hey!
Oh I hear you about grandparents and toys and such… Don’t have kids myself, but I was terrified of what might happen if I *did*… A friend of mine had a strict talk with her husband’s parents and relatives (they live in the same house) and her daughter doesn’t get candies and such even if ‘other kids’ do!
I was thinking if I ever had kids, there would be strict talks with in-laws & family and such! (in a diplomatic way, ideally!) Just thought I had to mention it, lol..
(Maybe it sounds impossible, but I keep thinking if she managed to persuade her in-laws, other stuff can be done too!!)
That is so interesting. I forgot to ask, do you carry a purse with you? I mean surely you need something to haul keys, wallet, kid’s snotty tissues, lipstick, etc.
Ha. I do. I carry my “work bag” all week. But otherwise I do have a purse that I can/do carry (the purse I was already carrying prior to this year). And while this is most centrally about my clothes I of course had to consider, as I said, anything else I carry on my person–as it does all contribute to my external presentation.
Glad you found this sort of materialism interesting.
I think that you’ve really gotten to the core of something when you say that we don’t really value the things we have. I would say that not only do we not value the things that we have, a lot of the time we don’t even really BUY the things that we have. We buy a lifestyle. We buy fun. We buy image. Commercials don’t sell things at all, if you really think about it. Camera commercials sell happy memories. Telecommunications commercials sell connection. Beer commercials sell fun and friendship.
I’m not ready to make the commitment that you’re making, but I’m really glad that you’re inviting me to live vicariously through your experiences.
You’re so right. Thanks for adding to the conversation, Stephanie.
And I do invite you to live vicariously, as well as implement any portion of what I’m doing into your day to day clothing/identity/consumption experiences.
Interesting article Kristy,
Clever concept that materialism should be the valuing of material items in a way that promotes a sense of care for the item and where it came from, more than just the endless acquisition of things to be consumed and discarded.
Maybe we could use the word “consumeristic” to convey the meaning that is applied to “materialistic” at the moment.
Hey, David. Yes, it is a little challenge to the traditional use of the word but I just appreciated considering the alternative, of truly valuing the object so as to not be so mindlessly consumptive and dismissive. I suppose we could try to flip any word around in a similar way. It just happens to sound better when Berry is the one doing it…
Kristy, Thank you for your thoughtful, honest posts as you go through this process. I’ve just read all the posts to date. Why did it take me until day 50 to find your blog? I *love* what you’re doing.
I have the Bright Young Things version of Sheena’s Year 1 UP dress, purchased before UP started selling the Year 2 dress you’re wearing. Inspired by what Sheena has done, I’m in the planning stages of putting together a ladies-only fundraiser tweetup where everyone wears a basic black outfit from their closets, and also reading up on the various fashion fasts on the web and plotting which one to sign up for. Like you in college, I’ve always tended to use my clothes like role-playing props, and the prospect of using a big purge and one-month (or more) challenge to help define my personal style and explore my relationship to fashion and consumerism is really exciting.
Hey, Deborah! Thank you for the thoughtful comment and your support. While I am 50ish days in, I have 300ish left… so I’m thrilled to have you join in at this point in ODP.
Do you know what the differences are in the two dresses? I don’t see it. And I’d love to hear more about your fundraiser! Please keep me informed on what you decide to do in terms of purging and fasting. I look forward to having you along for the journey!
Three differences between the BYT version (Premier Edition, which is what I have) and the UP version:
- the BYT version is exactly like what Sheena wore in Year 1, so, it doesn’t have the detachable collar and finessed pleat design that UP came up with after a year of wearing it
- the BYT version is 95% organic cotton, 5% lycra (I think? not sure of the origin of the cotton or where it’s woven, and can’t find that info online now) in a pique weave, and the fabric is quite heavy, which should make it really durable, and good for hiding figure flaws (postbaby belly, I am looking at you) – but means it doesn’t drape as nicely. That big pleat on the non-button side consequently really bubbles out over my butt. I’m planning to do a little DIY topstitching to get it to lay a little flatter.
- the BYT version is sewn in a workroom in NYC; Eliza from BYT has good detail on that on her website (youbrightyoungthings.com)
I also find the BYT version a bit too short for me (I’m 5’5″ tall, and have a longer-than-average torso, and it hits above mid-thigh on me), so I’ve since gotten the Year 2 version sewing pattern from the UP website so I can make a longer version in a lighter fabric with better drape, possibly in a different colour (navy would be crisp for summer and just as timeless as black). The pattern also means I could make a couple of different collars for it to add a little variety (one white, one navy, with vintage tatted lace or a simple embroidered finish) without losing the simplicity or timelessness of the design.
Thanks for filling me in, Deborah. I like that it’s made in a workroom in NYC!
The U.P LBD is also too short, as I’ve mentioned. I think for an incredibly short person it would still be an incredibly short dress. For me, it was a shirt-dress prior to lengthening. Have fun making your own from the pattern!
Oh, I see from Eliza’s site that the version of the dress I have is sold out! Just a couple in size medium left. It’s not clear whether she will be selling the Spring 2011 collection version that she showed during New York Fashion Week in September over the web.
WOW! Another great post. I think I’m hooked on this site now too
So many great blogs out there! Can’t believe I haven’t seen this yet either!
I totally hear you on putting things away ‘for someone else to fix’ or to fix ‘later’ (usually the ‘later’ never came…)
When I started the zero waste experiment, my wardrobes were okay – but now they are overflowing!
Even if it’s retro & ’2nd hand’ (and came free) it still uses A LOT of free space… especially if it still needs mending…
so, not sure what to do with those clothes lol.. I’d like to do something creative with the ones I like at least.. and have kept procrastinating about it lol when ‘other things were more important’ hmm…? (& my skills of mending & sewing are not exactly stellar to put it mildly lol..)
Hmm…?
Your post is very thought-provoking…
Ha, your excitement is encouraging!
It’s interesting that you set out to produce zero waste (a great thing) and now feel overwhelmed with options and packed closets. Perhaps it’s time to find a constructive place for them in the care of others..?
Ha ha, glad that it is!
I thought you maybe needed some encouragement for a bit…
Such days do happen, no matter what worthwhile things you set up to do or explore..
And sometimes it’s very reassuring that days like that happen to others too..
Yeah, my response to zero waste was a bit of a pack rat-ty – don’t throw it away! I intended what cannot be properly reused or recycled here for artsy projects or maybe workshops, but then it got out of hand a bit!
I’d love to find constructive places for some of that stuff
(some options are a bit far distance-wise, locally it’s rural suburbia and not much happens here, even charities don’t know what to do with the really bad clothes that need mending or too outta style and they get too much clothing anyway… thought to start some re:style workshops but got owerwhelmed with it all a bit, for a bunch of factors)
I’m slowly trying to get attick under control tho…
So, where is the photo of the chapel from? It’s not James Chapel, is it? It’s been a while since I’ve been there.
It is Dwight Chapel, on Yale’s Old Campus.